It can be difficult for jewelry designers to make their mark in the industry, but 10 years ago, Eva Fehren burst onto the scene with a unique aesthetic and her covetable X rings. Her use of darkened metals, geometric designs, fancy diamond cuts, and grey diamonds make her pieces instantly recognizable. She speaks to Forbes about her career highlights and what’s next for the brand. 

How did you get your start in the jewelry industry? Did you always want to be a jewelry designer?

I studied fine art at the Cooper Union, and while I was always interested in jewelry it was never something that I was formally trained in. During my last years in art school, I began experimenting with jewelry at night and on the weekends, trying to learn everything I could on my own. After I graduated, I began working for an amazing jewelry designer, Philip Crangi, and soaked up as much as I could like a sponge. I had never considered being a jewelry designer growing up, but as soon as I began working in the industry, something just clicked. I went on creating jewelry and art for many years, bouncing back and forth between the two until I launched my own collection in 2011.  

Who, what, or where inspires your designs?

As a native New Yorker, I am extremely inspired by my hometown. I draw inspiration from the people, art, architecture, and urban patterns of New York City.

What would you say is Eva Fehren’s signature style or piece of jewelry?

My signature style has always been the X Ring, which was the first piece in my collection. The perfectly symmetrical, graphic, and delicate ring embodies all the aesthetic principles that define Eva Fehren and was the launchpad for my brand 10 years ago.

Your line is known for its excellent craftsmanship. Tell us a bit about your production process. Do you make efforts in sustainability?

My upbringing in New York City is a central part of my approach with Eva Fehren. I grew up in a family business that manufactured in New York City, so committing to producing my work and creating jobs in NYC is an essential part of what I do. It is important to me that my highly personal pieces are expertly crafted by skilled and talented artisans. I am proud to say that the same hands have been crafting and setting the X Ring since day one. 

What does high jewelry mean to you?

The high-jewelry pieces in my collection typically feature exceptionally rare and exquisite custom-cut diamonds. Eva Fehren’s fine jewelry collection is meant to be worn every day, never taken off, like a uniform. The high jewelry pieces are slightly more aspirational, rare, monumental, and complex. 

Last year marked the 10-year anniversary of Eva Fehren and you’ve made the exciting decision to open your first brick-and-mortar store. How did you decide to take this leap? 

It felt like the right time to interface with our customers in a new way! We have all been so isolated from one another and are ready to be together again. 

Does the location of the store hold significance to you?

There was something incredibly special to me about opening a boutique in Rockefeller Center — an iconic New York City location. In the early days of the pandemic, so many people left the city that it made me really want to celebrate New York and put our roots down in a new way right in the heart of my native city. As we all have witnessed, the retail landscape has changed dramatically, and I think that it’s the perfect moment for reinvention and risk-taking.  

What will be unique about this store? Are you collaborating with any other brands?

The Eva Fehren store is truly an immersive brand experience, featuring home accessories from our design peers such as Fernando Mastrangelo, L’Objet, and Apparatus. The store also hosts accessories from our Holly Hunt collaboration, my paintings, and Eva Fehren home objects. It was really an opportunity for me to bring my world and creative interests together in a holistic way.  

What is your favorite piece of jewelry you have designed?

That is such a difficult question! That’s like picking a favorite child! I have been so fortunate to design so many unusual and special pieces. I think while I love the excitement and challenge of creating unique custom engagement rings, my proudest moment is and will always be designing the X Ring.

Does the brand have a specific message that you want to share with the world?

My mission has always been to create pieces that make women feel empowered and beautiful. That is the magic of design…it allows me to play a small part in bringing joy and beauty to other people’s lives.

Your jewelry has been seen on many big-name celebrities. What has been your pinch-me moment since starting your line?

I am not easily starstruck but seeing Oprah wearing an Eva Fehren ring on every finger on the cover of her magazine was definitely a pinch-me moment early on in my career! 

This interview has been lightly edited.