Nicole Kidman and Kim Kardashian may have made headlines walking the runway of Balenciaga’s latest couture collection, but they were far from the only stars to turn up at high-wattage fashion and jewelry events in Paris.
While haute-couture presentations tend to nab the lion’s share of the headlines, partly due to their front rows splashed with Hollywood stars, high-jewelry presentations likewise attracted industry A-listers, many boasting new or long-standing relationships with their respective brands. House ambassador Marion Cotillard’s presence at the Chanel dinner, hosted at the Grand Palais Éphémère to celebrate the debut of the house’s 1932 high-jewelry collection, is an ideal example, while Henry Golding, Laura Harrier and Kate Beckinsale were among the attendees at the opening of the David Yurman flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré (Golding recently debuted as the face of the jeweler’s men’s campaign).
Parties and dinners dotted with boldfaced names imbued the week with plenty of star power, helping shine a spotlight on one-of-a-kind designs collectively known as haute joaillerie, known for the painstaking handcraft that goes into them and the use of exquisite stones. Here’s a look at noteworthy pieces from the 16 brands that debuted high-jewelry collections in Paris last week.
Anything not reserved by private clients in the coming days easily might find its way onto an upcoming red carpet. All pieces seen here are price upon request.
The dinner attended by Cotillard happened amid the debut of the iconic French house’s 1932 high-jewelry collection, which celebrates the 90th anniversary of Coco Chanel debuting her “Bijoux de Diamants” high-jewelry collection in November of that year. More than 70 new high-jewelry designs put an emphasis on the sun, moon and the comet, elements Chanel often used in her work. This Comète Volute brooch crafted in 18-karat white gold and diamonds can be worn multiple ways: as the oversized brooch seen here or the star as its own brooch, while the tail can be detached and worn as a bracelet. chanel.com
Using beetles in jewelry craft is nothing new, but design director Evan Yurman is elevating the idea with this pair of earrings in the latest David Yurman high-jewelry collection. These Dianthus earrings are crafted in aluminum with 18-karat white gold and embellished with a pair of Belionota sumptuosa beetles — also aptly known as jewel beetles for their vivid colors — and surrounded by cognac diamonds. davidyurman.com
Claire Choisne, creative director of Boucheron, likewise looked to nature to influence her just-released high-jewelry collection. This “Papillon Diamant,” or Diamond Butterfly, single earring is crafted using genuine wings, a process Choisne says took roughly eight years to perfect. The butterfly wings were treated to be long-lasting before being scanned to create the gold structure holding them; a fancy pear-shaped diamond surrounded by white diamonds balances the structure and allows it to rest easily on the ear. boucheron.com
The Beautés du Monde high-jewelry collection by Cartier showcases brilliant stones amid an overall theme of, as its name implies, highlighting “the beauty of the world.” This Panthère Heroique necklace features one of Cartier’s signature design elements — crafted in white gold, diamonds and onyx — wrapped around a 28.34-carat fancy-shaped emerald; the tassel of emerald beads, meanwhile, can be removed to wear the necklace alone, or it can be attached to the clasp so it drapes down the back. cartier.com
The jeweler’s 75-piece “Chopard Loves Cinema” Red Carpet Collection that debuted in May during the 75th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival includes this vibrant pair of earrings, crafted in titanium and embellished with 11.01 carats of round-cut sapphires, 11.31 carats of round-cut amethysts, 4.82 carats of square-shaped yellow diamonds, and 6.23 carats of brilliant-cut white diamonds. chopard.com
Van Cleef & Arpels
Brooches felt more prevalent than in past high-jewelry presentations, and there’s an easy explanation: With men increasingly embracing jewelry on red carpets, jewelers seem eager to offer options ideal for adorning the lapel of a tuxedo. This ribbon-inspired Double Ruban Mysterieux Clip is part of Van Cleef & Arpel’s 25-piece collection that honors its signature mystery-set technique: Around a 3.08-carat emerald-cut diamond, buff-topped rubies, pink sapphires and diamonds are set in white and rose gold. vancleefarpels.com
Prabal Gurung brought Michelle Yeoh as his guest to May’s Met Gala, and the Everything Everywhere All at Once actress indeed looked stunning in the designer’s gown as well as a statement necklace he designed for Tasaki Atelier. That’s the name of the high-jewelry collection of Japanese pearl house Tasaki, which signed Gurung as its global creative director in 2017. Among the “Radiant Sky” collection pieces that Gurung debuted at the Ritz Paris, this necklace blends substantial turquoise stones with aquamarines, Paraiba tourmalines, blue zircon, diamonds, and Akoya and South Sea pearls, all set in 18-karat white gold, to create a lush, tonal effect. tasaki-global.com
The Milan-based jeweler took a unique approach with its latest high-jewelry presentation, preferring to dive into its vaults and offer signature pieces from its archives as a statement of sustainability. Dubbed the Vintage Couture Collection, the jewels include this Laguna cocktail ring, handcrafted in the 1960s and showcasing a cushion-cut peridot totaling 22 carats, surrounded by Buccellati’s iconic engraving in 18-karat white and yellow gold, and finished with 36 brilliant-cut diamonds totaling .70 carats. buccellati.com
If you need the seal of approval of a high-jewelry design, consider that Pomellato CEO Sabina Belli was wearing this piece at the Italian label’s high-jewelry presentation at its Rue Saint-Honoré boutique. Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo said his “A Walk in Nature” collection was inspired by the play of light and shadow in everything from the early-morning hours to a stormy sky. This cord-style Velvet Tie Chain crafted in 18-karat yellow gold takes its cue from 1940s designs and feature a pair of jet pendants accented with diamond-embellished rondels in white gold and finished with garnet cabochons. pomellato.com
Representatives for the Taiwan-based designer known for high-jewelry pieces worn by Sarah Jessica Parker and Julia Roberts (the latter at the 2019 Academy Awards) presented Chao’s latest designs in a suite at the Ritz Paris. This Gentlewoman Ribbon Cuff features a pair of cushion mixed-cut fancy intense yellow diamonds totaling 6.85 and 6.03 carats, surrounded by a variety of diamonds and gemstones, including brownish yellow, pink and white diamonds, pink sapphires and purple garnets, all set in 18-karat white, yellow and rose gold. cindychao.com
At the Hotel de Crillon, De Beers presented the latest chapter in its Alchemist of Light high-jewelry collection, this time focusing on a mix of exceptional stones and innovative materials to create a modernist vibe. From its “Ascending Shadows” grouping, this necklace is crafted of dark blue aluminum paired with light blue titanium, and is set with round brilliant white diamonds to create steps that form a wing-like effect; marquise-shaped white diamonds and green rough diamonds line the inner edge, while a 3.41-carat pear-shaped light grey diamond is showcased as the center stone. debeers.com
The London-based diamond house, worn by Angelina Jolie and Anna Kendrick on red carpets, loves to wow with special stones, and that was the case with this ring in platinum and 18-karat rose gold, showcasing a pear-shaped fancy vivid pink diamond totaling 8.97 carats and flanked by white diamonds. graff.com
Presented in a salon at the Hôtel de Crillon, Valerie Messika’s latest high-jewelry collection took inspiration from Egypt. The pieces include a wide “Golden Shield” choker in 18-yellow gold that feels both modern and red carpet-friendly. Handcrafted from yellow gold plate to feel like a second skin, the choker features a pear-cut diamond totaling 17.04 carats at its center and is edged in round brilliant diamonds. messika.com
Victoire de Castellane said she always wanted to “draw prints on jewelry,” and the creative director of Dior Joaillerie has brought that idea to fruition with Dior Print, a 137-piece high-jewelry collection that indeed resembles colorful fabrics and ribbons rendered as jewelry. This ring features a fancy-cut pink sapphire at its center, surrounded by round brilliant sapphires and diamonds, all set in 18-karat rose gold. dior.com
Ondes et Merveilles translates to “Waves and Wonders,” the name of Chaumet’s 2022 water-themed high-jewelry collection. Creative director Ehssan Moazen said he was inspired by the idea of how the stars meet the sky in this Comète des Mers necklace, which features brilliant-cut diamonds and pearls in a variety of hues to highlight a star embellished with multicolored gemstones, including a 5.91-carat oval-cut Padparadscha sapphire from Madagascar, all set in 18-karat white and rose gold. chaumet.com
Set in 18-karat white gold, pear-shaped and round brilliant diamonds are used to craft this pairing of ear cuff and earring from Piaget’s Solstice collection, inspired by winter’s longest night of the year. piaget.com